Our big adventure for 2017 was joining Maggie & Trevor on Kouba their Prout Catamaran. They had planned to take Kouba through the Canal du Midi into the Med and asked us if we could join them for all or part of the trip. They expected the 400km trip with about 181 locks to take about six weeks. Of course, we said “Yes!”
The Canal du Midi, designed and built by Pierre-Paul Riquet in 1662-1681, is a remarkable work of engineering, justifying its inclusion in the UNESCO world heritage list, and one of the most popular cruising waterways in France. The canal runs 240km from the Port Nouvelle on the Mediterranean to Toulouse, where it connects with the Canal de Garonne. The canal is part of a route dissecting the south of France which allows boats to pass directly between the Mediterranean and the Atlantic without circumnavigating Spain and through the Strait of Gibraltar, where Barbary Pirates were rife during the 17th century. The Canal des Deux Mers is the name now commonly used for the entire navigable route, including the Canal du Midi.
Towards the end of July, we flew from Southampton to Bordeaux to join them. Maggie & Trevor had already sailed Kouba from Southampton to France – and about 100km down the Garonne River to Bordeaux. They had had their mast taken down and it was being trucked across France to Port Nouvelle on the Mediterranean. Taking a catamaran through the French canals would be a serious challenge – Kouba was a Prout Snowgoose 37,with a beam of 4.95m and a draft of only 0.6m. The maximum width of the canal locks is 6m. By the time you added fenders down each side, it wouldn’t leave much leeway for manoeuvring.
The Canal de Garonne (120 miles, 53 locks) stretches from its junction with the Canal du Midi in Toulouse, west to Castets-en-Dorthe where it opens into the tidal Garonne River. The port of Castets used to be very busy with barges queuing up, waiting for high tide so they could continue with their cargo to Bordeaux.
Work on the Canal de Garonne didn’t start until 1838, nearly 150 years after the Canal du Midi was already in use. As was the case with other parts of the French canal network, the advent of the railway soon affected its use for the commercial transport of goods. Unlike the earlier Canal du Midi, the Canal de Garonne features many straight stretches, and between Toulouse and Agen the railway is always nearby. The Canal opened in 1856 but due to its limited draft (1.6m) the canal is now almost exclusively used for tourism. There are 53 locks, climbing 128m from Castets-en-Dorthe to Toulouse. The canal has some impressive structures, notably the aqueducts over the Tarn near Moissac and the Garonne at Agen.
The river is fully navigable as far as it’s junction with the Canal de Garonne at the Castets-en-Dorthe, some 54km further on from Bordeaux. The advice for getting to Castets was to leave Bordeaux 4-5hrs before local high water and carry the tide upstream for the journey. We set off at 7.30am for the first leg and made it to the first lock at Castets by 11am – Kouba had made really good time.
Trevor had his ‘VNF vignette’ checked at this écluse (lock), coming into the ‘system’ from the river – this was his ‘permit’ to use the French Canals. It was interesting that the entrance door to the VNF offices is located two storeys up the face of the building: testament to the potential height of river flooding.
As the lock is filled, there can be quite a lot of turbulence – depending on the construction of the lock, water can fill the lock via sluices that are part of the lock gate (wound up or down by hand or power operated) or through the lock floor, or in combination or sequence. Whilst most locks are quite manageable from this aspect, others can feature a very strong force of water from ahead (from the gates) or from underneath (through the floor). Either or both can push the boat around in ways that make it difficult to control.
It was quite exciting in places as Kouba was ‘dimensionally challenged’ – sometimes with only two inches to spare when going through some of the narrow lock gates. This, with unknown crosscurrents into and out of the locks, taxed Trevor’s quite accomplished manoeuvring skills.
We tied up to a floating pontoon for the night at Meilhan-sur-Garonne, pleased with our first day’s progress. This is a beautiful leafy location, set under a hillside from the top of which are extensive views over the neighbouring river Garonne.
The next day we headed to Le Mas d’Agenais – about 20km and only four locks – and passing four villages. Surprisingly, the canal was already quite high and it was a bit surreal to be on deck looking down on the river Garonne below. We hiked up the hill to the village – they were having a prize giving and all the trophies were on display and the villagers proudly watching the winners receiving their prize.
From Le Mas d’Agenais it is about 16km to Damazan, our next stop. But the canal passed under a total of 12 bridges – some with low arches and one large suspension road bridge. Damazan is a charming village, known for its medieval heritage and picturesque setting along the Canal de Garonne. The central square (Place Armand Casse), surrounded by arcaded houses, is the heart of Damazan and reflects its medieval origins. Dating back to the 13th century, the Church of Saint-Pierre features beautiful stonework and is a peaceful place to soak in the village’s history. As you stroll through Damazan, you can see traces of the old fortifications that once protected the town, including remnants of the old ramparts and gates. It was market day and we enjoyed a freshly cooked meal seated under the arcade.
Just 5km further on is the town of Buzet-sur-Baïsse. It was a community of villas and farms built by the Romans high up in the hills and terraces surrounding the village. In the Middle Ages, a small town had started to develop around the 13th century castle, which sits atop a rocky spur overlooking the valleys of Bénac and Baïsse. In 2018 the castle was acquired by the Cave des Vignerons de Buzet. Towards the end of the Wars of Religion in the 16th century, the small hamlet of wine growers developed beside Bénac brook. The main activity of the area has always been agriculture, viticulture in particular. Buzet is now known the world over for the Cave des Vignerons.
From Buzet to Agen was about 28km and included traversing the Agen Aqueduct which spans the Garonne. The aqueduct consists of 23 arches, each of 20m span, which at the time of its completion was the longest navigable aqueduct in France. It has a length of 539 metres, a width of 12.48m and a canal width of 8.82m. The width of the channel is insufficient to allow boats to pass each other – boats must wait for oncoming traffic to clear the aqueduct before crossing. Heading east, the approach is via a flight of four 3m-3.5m deep locks. The highest is especially difficult due to the extreme force with which the incoming water enters the chamber. It takes about 45 minutes to pass through the four locks.
The next morning, we strolled around the town before heading to Boé where we tied up alongside the tree-lined canal avenue with timber edgings. Then it was off to Valence d’Agen, another 20km away. Valence d’Agen, built in 1283 by Edward I of England, is a large thriving market town. It has a much-photographed, impressive circular open-air public washhouse. There is also a remarkable 19th century abattoir (now an activities centre) complete with bull’s head sculptures.
Moissac is a further 17km away and the canal runs straight through the centre of town and is crossed by a rare ‘swing bridge’ – too low to pass under so they swing it out of the way – ‘hoot’ to open! Moissac is on the pilgrim route to Santiago de Compostela. The main reason people visit Moissac is for the world-famous Romanesque abbey church, cloister and porch. The town has a lovely brick road bridge over the River Tarn (the ‘Pont Napoléon’, although having promised it to the town, he didn’t actually get round to delivering it before fate intervened). Later that day, we moved another 8km to Castelsarrasin, via the impressive brick-arched aqueduct over the River Tarn and tied up in the marina there. The aqueduct is 356 metres long with 13 arches.
From Castelsarrasin to Montech is 13km. When the Canal de Garonne was constructed in the mid-19th century, the 2.5-km section around Montech comprised five locks, inevitably slowing the progress of cargo barges. The bypass solution conceived by engineer Jean Aubert was to create a 125-metre sloping channel, an inclined plane, through which barges could be moved by twin 1,000-horsepower diesel-electric locomotives. A gate located below the locomotives would shunt the wedge of water and the vessel in the desired direction — upwards or downwards. The Montech water slope began operating in 1974, handling larger vessels; smaller boats continued to use the existing locks. However, the new system proved costly and high-maintenance and was not exactly eco-friendly. Over the years, cargo traffic on the canal also steadily decreased. Following an engine failure in 2009, the water slope was quietly abandoned, and the locomotives gradually became decaying relics of the past.
On our walk around the town that evening we were fascinated by a dispensing machine that sold ‘Fresh, home-made pizzas cooked in three minutes’; ‘Buy six and get the 7th free’.
The next day would be our last on the Canal de Garonne – Trevor was keen to reach Toulouse, a further 48km and 10 locks away. By the time we got to the large basin which connects the Canal de Garonne and the Canal du Midi, at 43km, I was shattered. Trevor wanted to continue but I threw a tantrum – packed my backpack and passport and left the boat. Realising I was serious, he agreed to stop for the night, thank goodness. There were quayside moorings, but they were surrounded by busy roads. The basin has a terrific white marble bas-relief plaque – the Mediterranean and the Atlantic personified together with canal building cherubs busy with picks and shovels. Next day we made the very tight turn into the Canal du Midi and motored the 5km into the heart of Toulouse. Unfortunately, Maggie took a nasty fall while climbing over the guardrails onto the pontoon one day – she landed flat on her back and was in severe pain. The marina staff called an ambulance and she was taken to the hospital for x-rays. Luckily nothing was broken but she had severe bruising. We ended up staying in Toulouse an extra few days to give Maggie a chance to recover. Keith and I used the time to explore the city. It was a great relief when Maggie felt well enough for us to continue – although she wasn’t able to do any deck work. Being much taller than me, Maggie had been the crew member to alight before the lock and walk forward to assist from the shore while Kouba transited and then climb back on board until the next one. Now, I was elected to that role – it made more sense for Keith, being stronger, to help with the rope work on deck – he can throw ropes much better than I can!
At Toulouse we were at 132m above sea level – it would be another 50km before we reached the highest point at 190m and we could start descending.
20km from Toulouse we reached Montgisard but had two deep locks to navigate through – and a lot of beautiful but low arch bridges. It was always a tight squeeze to ensure Kouba got through the gates unscathed – a lot of the locks on the Canal du Midi are elliptical in shape – ie the gates at each end open out into a curved lock. We’d quite often have bystanders watching our manoeuvres – quite daunting, particularly for Trevor negotiating his way into the locks.
The next day another 14km to Gardouch with five locks on the way; two of them were double staircase locks ie one lock flows directly into the next. The canals here were generally lined grassy banks and avenues of plane trees which had cycle paths beneath them. It was possible to tie up to the banks for lunch or an overnight stop – so long as the canal was wide enough to allow other boats to pass.
On the next day, we finally reached Océan – the summit of the Canal du Midi. Just past Océan is where Riquet’s feeder canal enters, but it does so in a wonderful octagonal parkland setting and around an avenue of plane trees. The avenue leads up to a small hill, on top of which is an obelisk commemorating the canal’s plateau ‘between the two seas’ and celebrating Riquet.
Castelnaudary was our next stop – 13km but four locks: three single locks, one double and one triple. Thank goodness we were going down – it was certainly easier than going up. The most important part was ensuring that you let the lines out in a controlled way as the water level drops in the lock. It doesn’t ‘trickle’ out – it gushes! Castelnaudary is the cassoulet capital of the world. Made from haricot beans, pork rind, knuckle, shoulder and sausages as well as duck confit, authentic, traditional cassoulet has a unique, inimitable flavour.
The town is also famous for its lake, the Grand Bassin, a 5ha reservoir feeding the locks – and a popular mooring place for people travelling along the Canal du Midi. We stayed here 3-4 days enjoying the many restaurants lining the Grand Bassin, often with live music.
We also took a day trip by bus to Bram, about 20km away. Bram is the largest circular village in Europe. The modern town was born in the 12th century, built around its fortress church. The only way into the village was by a gate to the east. Bram was a centre of Cathar belief. Their differences with Rome brought the intervention of Simon de Montfort who besieged the town in 1210. He succeeded in three days and took revenge on resistors by cutting off the top lip of all his prisoners and gouging out the eyes of all but one. For the last he gouged out only one eye so that he could lead the others out of the town to the château of Lastours. By the 17th century Bram had outgrown its walls and expanded in concentric circles.
Another 2-3 days saw us arrive in Carcassonne, stopping one night at a place called Lalande – because there was a lovely looking restaurant, La Rive Belle, which we all fancied dining at!
Carcassonne is amazing with its spectacular medieval fortified citadel, perfectly preserved medieval ramparts, double city walls, four gates and 52 towers. In 1849 the city was in such a state of dereliction that the government proposed to demolish it. This caused a national outcry and comprehensive – somewhat inauthentic in places – restoration began.
Our timing was perfect – the Feria de Carcassonne was running for the next four days – live music, great food stalls, good wine and a really fun atmosphere. During the day there were also re-enactments of medieval jousting with lots of spectators. At night the city walls were lit up and made a fantastic sight. We really enjoyed Carcassonne.
However, it was time to move on with overnight stops at Trèbes, Puichéric, Homps, Argens-Minervois and La Robine. Homps has nice buildings including the Knights Tower – in the Middle Ages Homps was one of the most important sites of the Templar Order of Jerusalem. Argens-Minervois is a very small, medieval village, fairly picturesque from a distance with an ancient and seemingly untouched chateau set on the hill above. La Robine is a short off shoot of the Canal where we stopped for a night. Between Argens-Minervois and La Robine stands the Château de Paraza, a magnificent building dating from the 17th century, currently hotel, restaurant and wine cellar. It was great to have a walk around its huge halls.
Just past La Robine, we branched off the Canal du Midi onto the Canal de la Robine towards Narbonne and Port Nouvelle (on the Med). The Canal de la Robine, stretches 32km, passing through the historic city of Narbonne, offering breathtaking views of its shaded banks.
Until the Middle Ages, Narbonne was a prosperous city and port but plague, war and a harbour that was prone to silting up led to a decline in its fortunes. The Cathedrale Saint Just, despite its size, is in fact unfinished with only the choir completed. Finishing the building would have involved demolishing part of the city walls and so work stopped in 1340 and was never resumed after the town was invaded by the Black Prince in 1355. On the outside the structure is lovely to see with its large flying buttresses. Inside it is the height of the cathedral which is impressive and it has some very impressive 14th century stained glass windows.
Narbonne is also the birthplace of the beloved French singer and songwriter, Charles Trenet. He composed both the music and the lyrics for nearly 1,000 songs over a career that lasted more than 60 years. These songs include ‘Boum!’ (1938), ‘La Mer’ (1946) and ‘Nationale 7’ (1955). His birthplace, a modest yet well-preserved building, has been transformed into a captivating museum that invites visitors to explore the formative years of this iconic figure. Keith and I enjoyed wandering through the meticulously curated exhibits, which offer a glimpse into Trenet’s early life, his musical influences, and the events that shaped his remarkable career.
The Canal de la Robine then continues to Port la Nouvelle, passing by the beautiful island of Sainte-Lucie. Port la Nouvelle is on the Med so Maggie & Trevor had achieved their goal. We had a celebratory drink overlooking the sea and the following morning Keith and I left Kouba and caught a train to Perpignan. Perpignan, the last big city before the Spanish border in the South of France, is known as the capital of French Catalonia. Located at the foot of the Pyrenees and just a few kilometres from the sea, it acts as a bridge between Barcelona and the south of France. We stayed there a few days for some R&R and enjoyed the sights.
It is easy to see why boating on the French Canals is a popular way to spend your retirement – just ambling through the beauty of the French countryside along avenues of plane trees which dappled sunlight onto the tranquil water. We visited many small, picturesque villages, all at a very gentle pace punctuated with activity as we tackled the numerous locks and bridges along the way. There were many memorable experiences and happenstances – most revolving around good food, wine and friendships. This adventure had been on our ‘Plan B’ so many thanks to Trevor & Maggie for satisfying our itch. When I talked to Keith about the experience, we both realised why it didn’t really appeal to us as a lifestyle – the canal is very much a ‘one way’ experience, whereas at sea we could always decide to change destinations if the whim took us!