With a fair breeze we left Seisia and headed across the 250-odd miles across the Gulf of Carpentaria to Truant Island. The first day we were sailing with a useful 10 knots of breeze, but during the night this fell away so engine on! The wind didn’t return for most of our journey across the Top End, which meant the whole journey became a bit of a drudge. No wind, isolated and uninspiring anchorages, no other yachts, no coconut-palmed beaches – just hot and dusty scrubland. We were also nervous about swimming as warnings about box jelly fish and crocodiles were everywhere. Although there were no physical signs, we were always wary. Due to the lack of wind, fuel usage was much higher than anticipated, so we had to find somewhere to refuel. After dodging a waterspout we made a radio call to a passing Customs launch who pointed us to an Aboriginal community on Elcho Island. Here we filled up with fuel and continued island-hopping to Port Essington 4 days away. It was evident that the monsoon season was upon us with huge afternoon electrical storms and squalls. Early settlers tried to create the first economic centre in Northern Australia at Port Essington – a large natural harbour rivalling Darwin which was created 50 years later. Things hadn’t worked out and this outpost was abandoned. We spent a week enjoying this area, lots of bays and creeks to explore. Like the whole of the Top End, the fishing was good and fresh fish was often on the menu.
It was now late November and we were booked into Bayview Marina for the 1st of December – the ever increasing storms heralding the start of the cyclone season. We finished our stay in the Top End with a visit to a secluded eco lodge only accessible by sea or air. An afternoon propping up the bar was a nice way to end our trip.
Darwin was about 120 miles away so we planned an overnighter. Tides in this area are notorious (up to 7-8m range) and hence timing is all important. We left Port Essington at 9am and hit the tide to round Cape Don just right – with 8 knots of tide behind us we were swept into the Van Diemen Gulf and hit 20 knots of wind which urged us on. Through overfalls and steep seas we ploughed on until we reached the centre of the Gulf – then, like someone turning the switch, the wind died – we were motoring again! As night fell we could see the storm clouds building and as luck would have it our auto pilot died! I quickly rigged up our backup and we gingerly started to navigate through the many hazards in the Gulf. Just after dark the heavens put on a magnificent display of lightning. We watched the creation of a huge storm cell – an amazing sight. Our first hope was that we could out-run it; our second hope was to go around it, but due to navigational limitations, we finally decided that prayer was the only option! The sky was as dark as a tomb and the lightning was crashing all around. I was convinced we would be hit – the smell of ozone was intense, the wind blew up to 40 knots, but thankfully the seas did not build as well. We navigated through narrow passes with fast running, turbulent tides – Christine helmed while I buried my head under a pillow! (Sorry, I wimped out!!) The only time we could see anything was when a lightning flash occurred (often!). Christine was steering by the compass and regular updates from me for course changes. This seemed like at eternity but in truth probably only lasted a couple of hours! The storm finally moved away and the last leg into Darwin passed comfortably. At dawn we anchored in Fannie Bay and ended the sailing for the year.
Darwin is a crossroads for many people – and we are at our own crossroad again. Our original plan had been to cruise the Kimberley region this year, but having experienced the desolation of Top End so far, the attraction of cruising the Kimberleys has drifted away. So, do we carry on or do we stay? At present we are taking the latter approach – but who knows? Answers on a postcard please!
Christine spent the last cruising season studying for her CIMA exams and successfully passed 5 exams in a week immediately before starting a new job working as a management accountant for a large property development company in Darwin. I am contracting for a shipping company – well, it puts some money in the bank and pays for our stay.
Next time, “Life in Darwin – a booming frontier town!”